Perfumery Index - Phlur Blog

Hedione Scent in Perfumery

What Is Hedione?


Hedione is a synthetic aromatic molecule known by its chemical name methyl dihydrojasmonate or cyclopentaneacetic acid, 3-oxo-2-pentyl-, methyl ester. The scent description of Hedione is sweet, fruity, floral, citrus lemon and grapefruit-like with woody jasmine and green nuances. It is versatile, appearing in various types of perfumes, from light and fresh to complex and rich. Hedione often complements other aromas like citrus, floral, and woody to create a harmonious fragrance.

Origin:


Hedione, a synthetic molecule used in perfumery, was first synthesized by Swiss fragrance and flavor company Firmenich in the 1960s. It was created as a cost-effective and stable substitute for the expensive fragrance ingredient jasmine, replicating its fresh and floral scent. 


Over time, Hedione has become a commonly used ingredient in perfumes, appreciated for its ability to enhance the perception of other aromas and add a sense of brightness and transparency to fragrances. It can be found in a range of perfumes, from light and fresh to complex and rich.

Function:


In perfume development, Hedione serves as a modifier, amplifying and elevating the scent of other fragrance components. With its fresh, floral and slightly citrusy aroma, Hedione is often utilized as a top note in perfumes. Its ability to enhance the perception of other ingredients and bring a sense of luminosity and clarity to a fragrance makes it a valuable tool for perfumers in creating harmonious and well-rounded scents.

Ingredient Type:


In perfumery, Hedione is considered a safe synthetic raw material. Synthetic raw materials are molecules that are artificially created in a laboratory, as opposed to being extracted from natural sources.

Scent Profile:


Hedione imparts a delicate and fresh aroma, reminiscent of jasmine, with green and floral undertones and a hint of citrus and fruitiness. When used in fragrance development, it is blended with other ingredients such as citrus, floral, and woody notes to create a well-rounded and harmonious scent. 

Variations of Hedione in Perfumery:


Hedione has versatile applications in perfumery and comes in various forms to achieve different fragrances. The variations include:

  • Hedione Jasmone - a floral and slightly sweet scent that mimics natural jasmine.

  • Hedione Crystal - a more intense version with a higher concentration of citrusy and fruity notes.

  • Hedione Jasmin - a blend of hedione and jasmine for a more natural jasmine aroma.

  • Hedione Jasminate - a combination of hedione and jasmine absolute for a longer-lasting jasmine scent.

  • Hedione Citrus - a stronger version with a higher concentration of citrusy notes.

These are only a few examples, and there are many more variations of Hedione available with varying percentages and ingredients for diverse fragrance profiles.

What Fragrance Family is Hedione in?


On the fragrance family wheel, Hedione is categorized as a floral ingredient due to its fresh and slightly citrusy aroma. Floral scents typically include flower-based components like rose, jasmine, and lavender. Hedione is utilized to infuse a sweet and floral fragrance into perfumes. That being said, perfumes can comprise various fragrance families and Hedione can be combined with other elements to form unique aromas and belong to different categories, including citrus, green, fruity, and more.

Phlur Fragrances Containing Hedione:

Continue reading

Cardamom Scent in Perfumery

What is Cardamom?


Cardamom is a widely used ingredient in perfumery with a spicy, warm and sweet scent. Its scent profile makes it a popular top or middle note. It complements other spices such as cinnamon and clove and works well with both woody and floral notes, making it suitable for a wide range of fragrance products including perfumes for both men and women, colognes, and scented candles.


In perfume development, different forms of cardamom are utilized, including cardamom oil, absolute, and CO2 extract. Cardamom oil is derived from steam distillation of the seeds and is prized for its strong and intense scent. Cardamom absolute is a more potent form of the essential oil with a more robust aroma. Cardamom CO2 extract, obtained through supercritical fluid extraction, is favored for its delicate aroma, offering a more natural aroma.

Origin of Cardamom:


Cardamom boasts a rich history in perfumery, with its use dating back to ancient civilizations. It is said to have originated in South India and Sri Lanka, where it was prized for its aromatic and medicinal properties. The spice was widely traded and used in ancient Egypt and Greece, and has been a staple in traditional perfumery and Ayurvedic medicine in the Middle East and Asia for centuries. With its versatile and complex scent, and fixative qualities, cardamom remains a sought after ingredient in modern-day perfumery.

Function:


The main function of cardamom in perfume development is to provide a warm, spicy, and slightly sweet aroma to fragrances. It is commonly used as a top or middle note; with the warm, spicy and slightly sweet aroma of cardamom adding depth and complexity to the fragrance.  Additionally, it can serve as a fixative, which helps to prolong the longevity of other aroma compounds in a fragrance. 

Ingredient Type:


In perfumery, cardamom is a natural ingredient (raw material) obtained from the seeds of the cardamom plant, a perennial herb of the ginger family. The seeds are harvested, dried, and can then be used whole or be ground to make powder. The essential oil is extracted from the seeds through steam distillation and is used in a wide variety of fragrances.

Scent Profile:


Cardamom is known for its warm, spicy, and slightly sweet scent profile. Its aroma features crisp notes of camphor, lemon, and mint, with woody and balsamic undertones. The scent is often described as refreshing, invigorating, and stimulating.

Variations of Cardamom in Perfumery:


In the majority of perfumes on the market, two main varieties of cardamom are utilized: green and black. Green cardamom is the most common, known for its light and fresh aroma featuring lemon and mint notes. It is used to add a refreshing touch to fragrances. Black cardamom, also referred to as brown cardamom, has a stronger, smoky scent compared to green cardamom. It is commonly used in amber and spicy fragrances to add depth and complexity. Both green and black cardamom can be used as natural raw materials and extracted into essential oils.

What Fragrance Family is Cardamom in?


Cardamom is a member of the spicy sub-fragrance family, known for its warm, aromatic scents inspired by spices and herbs. It adds a warm, comforting, and inviting touch to perfumes, colognes, scented candles–especially amber-inspired fragrances. Cardamom’s spicy and slightly sweet aroma makes it a popular ingredient in both men's and women's fragrances.

Phlur Perfumes Containing Cardamom:

Continue reading

Basil Scent in Perfumery

What is Basil?


Basil is commonly known as a culinary herb, but is actually a popular ingredient in perfumery. It is known for its fresh, slightly sweet, and slightly peppery aroma. Note that the basil used in perfumery is not the same as the sweet basil used in cooking (Ocimum basilicum), but rather the Ocimum gratissimum species, also known as "African basil" or "clove basil" due to its clove-like scent.

Origin:


Basil has been a staple in perfumery for centuries, originating in Africa and Asia with a strong presence in India for medicinal and spiritual purposes. Through ancient trade routes, the herb was introduced to various cultures including the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. During the medieval period, it was brought to Europe and utilized both in cooking and medicine. Nowadays, basil is widely cultivated and utilized globally in various cuisines and traditional medicines.

Function:


In perfumery, basil is used for its strong, fresh, and slightly sweet aroma with a slight peppery note. It is a popular ingredient in perfumery, particularly in colognes, eau de colognes, and other fresh, crisp, and invigorating fragrances. It also can be used to add a unique and distinctive note to floral, herbal, and green perfumes.


Basil can be a top note, a middle note, or a fixative, depending on the use and the amount in the fragrance.


As a top note, basil is one of the first aromas you will smell when you apply the fragrance. It provides an initial burst of freshness, and usually lasts for the first 15 minutes to an hour, after which it evaporates quickly. The strong, fresh and slightly sweet aroma of basil can act as a great opener to a fragrance and sets the stage for the other notes.


As a middle note, basil can be used in smaller amounts to create depth and complexity in the fragrance. It blends well with other ingredients and can provide a unique and distinctive note, making it more complex and interesting. Middle notes are typically the heart of the fragrance, lasting for a few hours after application.


As a fixative, basil can be used to help prolong the longevity of the fragrance. It helps slow down the evaporation of the lighter, more volatile components of the scent, making the fragrance last longer on the skin.

Ingredient Type:


In perfumery, basil is usually categorized as a raw material. As an essential oil, extracted from the leaves via steam distillation, basil is a popular ingredient in perfumes and other fragranced products. Known for its fresh and slightly spicy scent, basil essential oil can be replicated with synthetic versions, but natural basil oil is more commonly used.

Scent Profile:


In perfumery, basil essential oil imparts a strong, fresh, and herbaceous aroma with hints of mint, spice, and sweetness. It has a green, vegetal scent with a touch of camphor or eucalyptus. Unlike fresh basil leaves, commonly used in cooking, basil essential oil has a more potent and concentrated fragrance with stronger minty and spicy notes. When used in perfumes, it adds a refreshing and invigorating touch, enhancing fresh, green, and floral notes.

Variations of Basil in Perfumery:


Basil essential oil used in perfumery comes in various types with distinct scent profiles. Some popular varieties include:

  • Sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum), with a fresh, green, spicy and sweet aroma

  • Holy basil (Ocimum sanctum), also known as "Tulsi," with complex notes of clove, camphor, and mint

  • Lemon basil (Ocimum x citriodorum), with a strong lemon fragrance

  • African basil (Ocimum gratissimum), with a pungent, camphorous scent

  • Thai basil (Ocimum basilicum var. thyrsiflora), with a peppery and licorice-like aroma

Note that the aroma profile can be influenced by factors such as growing conditions, time of harvest, and distillation process.

What Fragrance Family is Basil in?


Basil is categorized as part of the herbaceous fragrance family. This family encompasses fresh, green, and slightly spicy scents from plants and herbs. Other scents commonly associated with the herbaceous fragrance family include lavender, rosemary, thyme, and mint.

Phlur Fragrances Containing Basil:


No PHLUR fragrances utilize basil materials at this time.

Continue reading

Jasmine Scent in Perfumery

What Is Jasmine?


Jasmine is a small, star-shaped flower known for its pleasantly strong sweet and heady floral aroma. Among the over 200 varieties of jasmine, jasmine sambac and jasmine grandiflorum are the two most commonly used in perfumery. The scent profile of jasmine sambac, also called arabian jasmine, is sweet, musky, and sultry, while jasmine grandiflorum has a softer, more floral, fresh and green scent. Some believe that the aroma of jasmine can act as an aphrodisiac, while others use it for aromatherapy to promote relaxation.

Origin:


Jasmine is a flowering plant native to tropical and subtropical regions. It is believed that the use of jasmine in perfumery originated in ancient India, where it was used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine and to make fragrant offerings to gods and goddesses. The use of jasmine in perfumery then spread to other parts of Asia, and then through Europe and the Middle East, via trade and the spread of ideas. 


Today, jasmine is grown and utilized in perfumery worldwide, with major producers including France, Italy, and Morocco. The oil extracted from jasmine flowers, called jasmine absolute, is highly prized in perfumery for its intense and long-lasting floral scent.  Because a large amount of jasmine flowers are needed to produce even a small amount of oil, jasmine absolute is an expensive and highly sought-after ingredient.

Function:


Jasmine is highly valued in perfumery for its sweet and floral scent. It is commonly used as a top or middle note in perfumes, providing a strong initial impression and contributing to the overall character of the fragrance. Jasmine is considered a versatile note and is used in a variety of perfumes such as floral, oriental, and chypre scents. 


Additionally, jasmine is used to add depth and complexity to a fragrance, particularly when blended with other floral notes like rose, ylang-ylang or tuberose and paired with spicy or woody notes like sandalwood, cedarwood or patchouli to enhance the fragrance and provide more dimension. 


Jasmine also functions as a fixative, prolonging the longevity of a fragrance by slowing down the evaporation of lighter scent components.

Ingredient Type:


In perfume development, jasmine is used in both its natural form and in synthetic form. Jasmine absolute is extracted from the flowers of the jasmine plant and is highly valued for its deep, intense, and long-lasting aroma. However, it is also one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery due to the large number of flowers required to produce a small amount of oil. 


Synthetic jasmine, on the other hand, is created by using chemical compounds to replicate the scent of the jasmine flower. These compounds closely mimic the aroma of natural jasmine and are often used to supplement or replace natural jasmine in perfumes. Synthetic jasmine is more cost-effective and readily available than natural jasmine, and some perfumers may choose to use it for environmental or ethical reasons.

What Does Jasmine Smell Like?


Jasmine's aroma is characterized by its complexity, featuring green, fruity top notes and a hint of spice. Its middle notes are heady and warm, with intense floral notes of true jasmine. The base notes are described as slightly musky, with a powdery nuance, creating a rich and intoxicating scent that evokes feelings of sensuality.


Jasmine is also known for its subtle nuances. Even though it has a distinctly floral aroma, that aroma can vary based on its origin and extraction method. For example, jasmine from India is known for its green and herbal notes, while jasmine from Egypt has a honey-like note.


Jasmine's scent is considered to be incredibly versatile, making it a popular choice for many different types of perfumes, from fresh and crisp floral fragrances to deep and musky oriental-inspired perfumes. Its ability to blend well with other ingredients also makes it a sought-after ingredient in perfumery, introducing depth and complexity to a fragrance.

Variations of Jasmine in Perfumery:


Different variations of jasmine can be used to create various types of scent impressions. These variations of jasmine include:

  • Jasmine Sambac: known for its strong and slightly fruity aroma

  • Jasmine Grandiflorum: known for its sweet and rich aroma

  • Jasmine Auriculatum: known for its sweet, floral, and slightly spicy aroma

  • Jasmine Absolute: extracted from jasmine flowers to produce oil

  • Synthetic Jasmine: created using chemical compounds to mimic the scent of natural jasmine but less potent, complex, and long-lasting

Each variety of jasmine has a unique aroma and can contribute different elements to a fragrance, depending on how it is used and layered with other ingredients. 

What Fragrance Family is Jasmine in?


Jasmine is a keystone of the floral fragrance family. Widely known for its sweet, floral, and exotic aroma, it is often used as the main note in floral fragrances, or as a key component in complex floral compositions. Because jasmine is a versatile aroma, it could also be categorized as part of other fragrance families such as amber and subcategories like chypre, contributing to the overall depth and complexity of virtually any scent.

Phlur Perfumes Containing Jasmine:

Continue reading

Iris Scent in Perfumery

What is Iris?


Iris is a type of flower with uniquely fragrant roots, used to add a distinctly powdery and floral aroma to perfumes. The process of extracting and producing iris oil is both time-consuming and labor-intensive, making it one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery. 

Origin:


Iris has a long history of use in perfumery, dating back to ancient Egypt. There, it was used to create a perfume called "Kophia" and to add fragrance to cosmetics, including kohl eyeliner. In ancient Greece, iris was known as "sea foam" and was commonly used in perfumes and medicines. During the Middle Ages, iris debuted in Europe where it became a highly favored ingredient in fragrances for members of royal courts. In the 19th century, iris was at the peak of its popularity in perfumery and was included in many well-known perfumes of the era. Today, iris is still widely used in perfumery, although synthetic compounds that mimic the aroma of iris oil are also common. Iris is considered a high-end ingredient and is used in many iconic perfumes.

Function:


Iris is a commonly used base note in a perfume due to its fixative properties, which helps to prolong the life of other fragrances in a blend. It imparts a unique and sophisticated aroma with its soft, earthy, powdery, and slightly floral scent. In perfumery, Iris is often paired with other notes such as violet, white musk, amber and woody notes to enhance its powdery character.

Ingredient Type:


Iris is a raw, natural ingredient used in perfumery, obtained from the rhizomes (roots) of specific species of the iris plant such as Iris germanica and Iris pallida. The rhizomes are dried and then treated with solvents to extract orris butter, an oily substance that adds a floral note to many perfumes.

What Does Iris Smell Like?


Iris has a powdery, floral, and slightly earthy scent profile with subtle undertones of spice or musk. The aroma of the iris root itself is complex, and may be described as having notes of violet, green leaves, or even a hint of licorice.  The final scent can vary depending on the species of iris, as well the specific extraction method that is used. 

Variations of Iris in Perfumery:


In the development of a perfume, two main types of iris are utilized: Orris root, derived from the Iris germanica, and Iris pallida root, derived from the Iris pallida. Of the two, Orris root is the most commonly used and considered to be the premium source of iris absolute. 

What Fragrance Family is Iris in?


Iris is categorized as a floral fragrance and is primarily utilized as a base note to enhance floral, chypre, amber, and woody scents. However, its distinct and complex scent profile allows it to be associated with multiple fragrance families, depending on its usage. 


For instance, when combined with fresh green notes and citrus, it can exhibit a crisp and clean character that is typically associated with the aromatic or green fragrance families. When paired with musk, amber, and vanilla, it can convey a warm, sensual essence that is far more characteristic of the amber fragrance families.

Phlur Perfumes Containing Iris:

Our Phlur Sandara perfume contains a safe synthetic aromatic variation of iris.

Continue reading

Incense Scent in Perfumery

What Is Incense?


In the perfume industry, incense refers to a blend that emulates the scent of burning incense, typically having woody, spicy, or resinous notes. They are often combined with floral, herb, and spice notes to add depth and complexity to a fragrance. Incense blends can be made using natural and synthetic materials like essential oils, resins, and synthetic aroma chemicals. Some common ingredients used to create incense blends are frankincense, myrrh, cedarwood, patchouli, and sandalwood.

Origin of Incense:


For centuries, incense has been used in cultural and spiritual practices around the world. It also has a long-standing use in perfumery, with some of the earliest known incense oils dating back to ancient civilizations in Egypt, China, and India. These cultures used incense in religious ceremonies and rituals and believed it to have medicinal and aromatic properties. In contemporary perfumery, incense scents add depth and complexity to fragrances and are found in many different perfumes.

Function of Incense in Perfumery:


In a perfume, incense can be used to add depth and complexity to the fragrance. It is frequently employed as a base note, which means it has a strong, long-lasting presence in the fragrance and helps to anchor the other notes. Incense scents can be woody, spicy or resinous and add a warm, rich, and mysterious quality to the fragrance. Incense blends are commonly incorporated with other notes such as florals, herbs, and spices to produce a unique and sophisticated scent.

Ingredient Type:


Both natural and synthetic materials can be utilized to create incense scents for perfumes. The materials chosen depend on the desired scent and intended use. Natural materials commonly used to create incense scents include essential oils, resins, woods, and spices. These materials are extracted or distilled to create concentrated aromatic compounds that are utilized to create incense scents. 


In addition to natural materials, synthetic aroma chemicals can also be used to create incense scents. These chemicals are artificially created in a lab and can replicate the scent of natural materials or create new and unique fragrances. Synthetic aroma chemicals are often preferred in perfumery as they are more consistent and stable than natural materials.

What Does Incense Smell Like?


Incense scents have a woody, spicy or resinous profile, meant to emulate the scent of burning incense and create a warm, rich and mysterious effect. The specific scent profile of an incense oil will vary based on the materials used to create it. For instance, frankincense and myrrh have a sweet, woody, and slightly spicy scent, while cedarwood has a dry, woody and slightly sweet aroma. Patchouli has a rich and earthy scent, whereas sandalwood has a warm, woody aroma.

Variations of Incense in Perfumery:


In perfumery, various types of incense can be used to create different fragrances and effects. Some examples include:

  • Frankincense: Made from the resin of the Boswellia tree, it has a warm, spicy, and slightly balsamic aroma.

  • Myrrh: Made from the resin of the Commiphora tree, it has a warm, slightly balsamic and medicinal aroma and is often combined with frankincense to add depth and complexity to a fragrance.

  • Dragon's Blood: Obtained from the Croton and Dracaena plants, it has a spicy, sweet, and slightly balsamic aroma and can bring a unique sense of character to a fragrance.

  • Copal: Derived from different species of the copal tree, it has a fresh, lemon-like aroma and brings a light and refreshing aspect to a fragrance.

  • Labdanum: Obtained from the Cistus shrub, it has a very musky, amber-like aroma, and is commonly used to add warmth in a fragrance.

These are only a few examples of the variations of incense used in perfumery. The specific form of incense used by a perfumer depends on the desired final scent profile and the intended use of the blend.

What Fragrance Family is Incense in?


Since incense is known for its warm, rich, and complex aroma, it is often associated with the amber fragrance family and is characterized by its combination of spices, resinous and woody notes. Some common notes in incense fragrances include cinnamon, clove, pepper, frankincense, myrrh, balsamic and smoky notes. These notes work together to create a warm, exotic and mysterious scent. Incense is commonly used in perfumes, candles, and other fragranced products to add depth and complexity to the overall aroma.

Phlur Fragrances Containing Incense:


No PHLUR fragrances utilize Incense materials at this time.

Continue reading

Heliotropin Scent in Perfumery

What is Heliotropin?


Heliotropin, also called piperonal or heliotropine, is a synthetic chemical used to add a sweet, floral, and slightly nutty aroma to perfumes. It is a colorless liquid that is produced in a lab, the result of a chemical reaction between other chemicals.


Oftentimes, it is used in combination with the natural heliotrope aroma, helping to enhance or modify its scent.

Origin:


Heliotropin was first synthesized in the late 19th century through the reduction of isosafrole, a chemical found in certain plant-based oils. Initially, it was primarily utilized as a precursor in the production of other compounds, such as dyes and pharmaceuticals.

Function:


Heliotropin has a dual role in perfumery. It imparts a sweet, vanilla-like aroma that enhances the fragrance when paired with scents such as rose, lavender, and jasmine, and it also acts as a fixative, prolonging the longevity of the perfume's fragrance.

Ingredient Type:


Because it is produced in a laboratory, heliotropin is labeled as a safe synthetic chemical compound. 

What Does Heliotropin Smell Like?


Heliotropin has a sweet, floral and nutty scent, akin to vanilla or almond. It has a strong aroma with balsamic undertones and a hint of spice and woodiness.

Variations of Heliotropin in Perfumery:


There are several forms of heliotropin that are used in perfumery, including heliotropin isolate and pure heliotropin compound. The desired scent and intended application of the final product will determine the specific concentration and form of heliotropin that is best suited to a formula. 


In perfumes, the variations of heliotropin most often used are chemical derivatives or analogs of the molecule, meaning that the chemical structure is slightly different than its original form. For example:

  • Heliotropyl acetate is a combination of heliotropin and acetic acid, and can help strengthen the aroma of heliotrope in perfumes

  • Iso heliotropin boasts a more fruity, less floral scent profile when compared to the original

  • Ethyl vanillin highlights notes of vanilla in perfumes

All of the variations of heliotropin makes it possible to create a broad range of nuanced scents, resulting in a beautifully balanced end result.

What Fragrance Family is Heliotropin in?


Heliotropin belongs to the floral fragrance family and more specifically to the subgroup of floral-almond fragrances. It has a unique powdery and sweet character, similar to the heliotrope flower. It may also be classified as a gourmand fragrance, known for its sweet scent reminiscent of dessert. 

Phlur Perfumes Containing Heliotropin:


No Phlur fragrances utilize Heliotropin materials at this time.

Continue reading

Heliotrope Scent in Perfumery

What is Heliotrope?


Heliotrope is a flowering plant that is native to South America, also referred to as bloodflower, cherry pie, or turnsole. The heliotrope plant has clusters of small, fragrant flowers in shades of purple or white, with a sweet, almond-like scent.


Using a specialized, steam distillation process, heliotrope essential oil is extracted from the plant’s flowers and used in a variety of perfumes and other fragrance products (such as candles, soaps, and lotions). 

Origin:


Heliotrope, a natural ingredient with a sweet, floral, and slightly nutty aroma, was first utilized in perfumery during the 19th century after it was introduced by European explorers and botanists. Its popularity led to widespread use in various products such as perfumes, cosmetics, skin care and traditional medicines.

Function:


Because of its strong, long-lasting aroma, heliotrope is often used as a base note in perfumes. It can help anchor other scents in the fragrance, adding a floral, subtly-nutty element to complementary scents such as vanilla, caramel, and tonka bean. 

Ingredient Type:


Heliotrope essential oil, extracted from the flowers of the heliotrope plant, is a natural raw material used in perfumery. Synthetic compounds that mimic the aroma of heliotrope may also be used to enhance or modify the scent of the essential oil in perfumes, which are created in a laboratory.

Scent Profile of Heliotrope:


Heliotrope has a sweet and floral scent with a subtle touch of almond. Many people associate the fragrance with feelings of warmth and comfort, often noting its nutty, woody undertones.

Variations of Heliotrope in Perfumery:


There are three primary forms of heliotrope used in perfumes:

  1. Heliotrope essential oil: Extracted from heliotrope flowers via steam distillation, the essential oil is used for its fragrance. In many perfumes, heliotrope essential oil serves as a base note, supporting other scents and supporting the overall longevity of the fragrance. 

  2. Heliotrope absolute: This concentrated extract of heliotrope is made using a solvent-based extraction process, offering the benefit of a more potent, long-lasting fragrance when compared to the essential oil form. Like heliotrope essential oil, heliotrope absolute is commonly used as a base note in perfumes.

  3. Synthetic heliotrope-scented compounds: These lab-formulated chemicals are used to enhance or modify the natural aroma of heliotrope, often combined with more natural forms of heliotrope to create a more intense fragrance effect overall.

What Fragrance Family is Heliotrope in?


Although heliotrope possesses some nutty and woody characteristics, it is generally considered to be a part of the floral fragrance family. Its complex, layered aroma pairs well with scents such as vanilla and caramel to create a pleasantly nuanced fragrance. 

Phlur Perfumes Containing Heliotrope:


No PHLUR fragrances utilize Heliotrope materials at this time.



Continue reading

Almond Scent in Perfumery

What is Almond Used for in Perfume?


Almond is a commonly used scent in perfume development, typically in the form of almond oil or absolute (an extract made from the seeds of the almond tree). With its sweet, slightly nutty aroma, almond is utilized as a base note in perfume formulations, creating a pleasant sense of complexity and depth. Almond oil is a natural fixative, working to extend the longevity of a perfume’s fragrance on the skin.


Almond oil is also used in soaps, lotions, and other personal care products to provide moisturizing and skin-nourishing properties. 

Origin:


Almonds have been used in perfumes since ancient times, when they were widely popular as a natural source of fragrance. Native to the Middle East, almonds have been cultivated for thousands of years. 


In ancient Egypt, almonds were frequently used for perfume and incense; in traditional Chinese medicine, they are often relied upon to treat many different ailments. 

Function:


Almonds are regularly used as a base note in perfumes, because their strong, long-lasting aroma can help anchor the fragrance’s other notes. You will often see the scent of almonds combined with similarly sweet and nutty notes, such as vanilla or caramel. Together, these notes create a layered, complex fragrance.

Ingredient Type:


Almond aromatic formats are considered natural, because they are derived directly from almond nuts. There are some perfumes that contain synthetic almond compounds, but these are usually used as a means to enhance - not replace - natural almond aroma.

Scent Profile:


Almond scent is characterized as sweet and nutty with a hint of woodiness. It often evokes feelings of warmth and comfort without being overpowering.

Variations of Almonds in Perfumery:


There are three basic forms of almonds used in perfumery:

  1. Almond extract: Made by extracting the essential oils and other key compounds from almonds, almond extract is generally used for its distinct aroma. 

  2. Almond oil: This clear, smooth oil is extracted from the kernels of almonds, and can be used both for its aroma and as a carrier oil for other perfume ingredients.

  3. Synthetic almond-scented compounds: These lab-produced chemicals are intended to mimic or enhance the aroma of almonds, and can be incorporated into a broad range of fragrance types.

What Fragrance Family are Almonds In?


Almonds fall into a subfamily in the Fruity fragrance family, on the edge between floral and fresh. A category of scents that is characterized by its nutty, slightly sweet, and comforting qualities. Other scents include hazelnut, cashew, and pistachio. 

Phlur Perfumes Containing Almonds:


No PHLUR fragrances utilize Almond materials at this time.

Continue reading

Pheromones in Perfumery

What are Pheromones in Perfume?


Pheromones are chemical compounds that are naturally produced by all animals, including humans. These substances are released externally, and are primarily believed to be present in sweat in certain areas of the body (especially the groin and armpits). Although there is still much to learn about how pheromones work, what we do know is that the biological purpose of pheromones is to serve as a means of communication with other members within the same species. In humans, scientists have suggested that pheromones may play an essential role in sexual attraction.


Some perfumes are formulated with small amounts of pheromones, based on the theory that the chemical compounds may have an alluring effect on members of the opposite sex. In other words, though the idea has not yet been proven, pheromones in perfume could be a “secret ingredient” for attracting potential partners.


Beyond this, pheromones also have a practical use in perfumery. When added to a perfume’s formula, they can serve as a carrier for the fragrance, enhancing the overall scent. 

Origin of Pheromones in Perfume:


In the 1970s, not long after scientists coined the term “pheromones,” the idea of using pheromones in perfumes emerged. As more people learned of the theory that pheromones might influence human behavior, it sparked a wave of ideas about how to use these chemicals as an ingredient in personal care products - all with the goal of attracting a sexual partner. 


Decades later, we still don’t know very much about the true potential of pheromones. However, that hasn’t stopped a number of brands from including pheromones in the formulation of their perfumes and other personal care products.

Function:


From what scientists have discovered so far, it seems like pheromones exist as a medium for communication among members of the same species. Unlike conscious forms of communication (like verbal and non-verbal cues), pheromones may work by triggering physiological responses that can range from attraction to aggression. 

Ingredient Type:


The pheromones used in perfumes are classified as synthetic chemicals, because they are lab-created rather than derived from natural sources. You may not see pheromones listed on a perfume’s ingredient label, simply because they are used in such small amounts.

What Do Pheromones Smell Like?


Pheromones - both those used in perfume and those naturally produced by the body - are typically undetectable to the human nose. So, pheromones will not significantly affect the actual scent profile of a perfume. In other words, you won’t be able to “smell” the pheromones in your perfume.

Variations of Pheromones in Perfumery:


There are different types of pheromones, both in nature and the world of perfumery. The most common variations used in perfumes and other personal care products include Epi-androsterone, Alpha-androstano, androstenol, androstenone, and androstadienone. 

What Fragrance Family are Pheromones in?


Pheromones are not included in any fragrance family, because they have no distinctive scent. 

Phlur Fragrances Containing Pheromones:


At this time PHLUR fragrances do not contain Pheromones.

Continue reading