Perfumery Index - Phlur Blog

The Arabic word for wood, oud, is extracted from agarwood, which is the resin created by Aquilaria trees. Oud is revered for its animalic, earthy, dark and rich woody scent profile. Oud oil is known to be one of the most expensive botanical ingredients in the world when it comes to perfume raw materials. Many sources list the cost of oud at $5,000 per pound. Due to both the cost and scarcity of natural oud, safe synthetic variations of oud are used in modern day fragrances.

Sandalwood has a smooth, milky, creamy, and woody scent profile. It is known to be both warm and relaxing. Sandalwood can bring about a richness to a fragrance it is incorporated into.

Patchouli is one of the most frequently used raw materials in perfumery. Often considered a “generational scent”, patchouli originated in India and was traditionally used as insect repellent. The oil actually comes from a leafy-green herb that is part of the mint family. It has a strong, sweet, pungent scent that blends well with sweet accords.

Hedione is a synthetic aromatic molecule known by its chemical name methyl dihydrojasmonate or cyclopentaneacetic acid, 3-oxo-2-pentyl-, methyl ester. The scent description of Hedione is sweet, fruity, floral, citrus lemon and grapefruit-like with woody jasmine and green nuances. It is versatile, appearing in various types of perfumes, from light and fresh to complex and rich. It often complements other aromas like citrus, floral, and woody to create a harmonious fragrance.

Pheromones are chemical compounds that are naturally produced by all animals, including humans. These substances are released externally, and are primarily believed to be present in sweat in certain areas of the body (especially the groin and armpits). Although there is still much to learn about how pheromones work, what we do know is that the biological purpose of pheromones is to serve as a means of communication with other members within the same species. In humans, scientists have suggested that pheromones may play an essential role in sexual attraction.

There are different ingredient categories available to a perfumer when creating a custom fragrance oil. One category is referred to as “essential” oils. Essential oils are the natural aromatic compounds extracted from seeds, bark, stems, roots, flowers, and other parts of a plant. The term comes from the ability of the oil to convey the “essence” of the plant it is derived from. The oils are typically obtained through the process of distillation, which can involve steam, water or solvent extraction.