What Is Agarwood?
When Aquilaria trees become infected with a specific type of mold, they develop a fragrant resin. And that resinous heartwood, called agarwood (or oud), has a gorgeously complex scent that makes it one of the most luxurious and sought-after notes in perfumery. The aroma is deep and woody with smoky, balsamic, and slightly sweet undertones.
Origin of Agarwood
Native to Southeast Asia, agarwood has been used for centuries in incense, traditional medicine, and perfumery. Its rarity and the labor-intensive harvesting process contribute to its status as one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. Sustainable and synthetic alternatives, like oud accords, are often used to replicate its complex scent.
Function in Perfumery
Agarwood is predominantly a base note that provides a deep, long-lasting foundation in fragrance compositions. It’s a favorite in high-end and niche perfumeries for its ability to lend different blends a richness, mystery, and luxurious weight. Agarwood is used as a base note in both Phlur's Apricot Privée perfume and Vanilla Skin perfume.
Ingredient Type
Natural agarwood is harvested from infected Aquilaria trees, which are relatively scarce now due to high demand and overharvesting. Synthetic oud accords are a safe and sustainable alternative that capture the same complex woodiness of natural oud.
Scent Profile of Agarwood
The scent of agarwood is intensely woody, resinous, and slightly sweet, with smoky, leathery, and earthy undertones. Its multifaceted profile lends depth and intrigue to a wide range of fragrance styles.
Variations of Agarwood in Perfumery
- Cambodian Oud: Rich, sweet, and slightly fruity.
- Indian Oud: Earthier and more animalic with deep woody notes.
- Synthetic Oud Accords: Smoky and woody interpretations with more complexity.
What Fragrance Family is Agarwood in?
Agarwood belongs to the Woody fragrance family, often appearing in the Amber and Leather subfamilies due to its smoky, resinous depth.
